With pliers in hand and his face bathed in the afternoon sun, Lin Yingxiong was putting the finishing touches on the bamboo mini steamer.
“It takes about an hour to make a small steamer,” said the youthful-looking 73-year-old, sitting on a stool at the De Cheong Sum Kee Bamboo Steamer Company in Sai Wan, where steamers of various sizes were stacked around him.
In the late 1950s, his family moved the business from Guangzhou to Hong Kong and trade flourished. By the 1980s, the situation had changed: rising labor and production costs forced factories to move to cheaper mainland China.
Today, most bamboo steamers are mass-produced on overseas machines in mainland China. Lama’s company is one of the few in Hong Kong that still produces products by hand.
Chinatowns around the world also import products from Lama. “I ship to San Francisco and other cities. This package will be sent to Hawaii,” he said, turning the box over to reveal a stamp that read “Honolulu,” the capital of the United States.
In an era of rapid technological advancement, many traditional skills have unfortunately disappeared, but fortunately, the bamboo steamer is synonymous with Hong Kong’s much-loved brunch tea and dim sum and has stood the test of time.
Through the frosted window next to the kitchen, you can see employees rolling dumplings with their hands, and waiters carrying dishes to and from tables.
Chef Chan Kit-ying of Central’s Holyford restaurant agrees. “Bamboo steamers are an integral part of Hong Kong cuisine. Without the bamboo basket there would be no dim sum,” she said.
”I hope this craft doesn’t die out like many craft traditions, and I hope people continue to pass it on from generation to generation.”
While glass, metal, and silicone steamers have hit the market, bamboo steamers, which have an open woven bottom, domed lid, and stackability that allows you to cook multiple dishes at once, have a loyal following. There are many reasons for this.
“I was concerned about the water vapor, temperature and humidity inside the container,” recalls Lau, owner of the Tate Dining Room and Mora Restaurant in Sheung Wan.
She said the benefit of a bamboo steamer is that it absorbs excess water vapor. “When steam condenses on the inside of the lid, the bamboo fibers absorb the moisture and prevent it from flowing back onto the food,” she says.
“If you cover a bamboo steamer with a lid after cooking, it will keep food hot longer, which is useful when serving multiple dishes or when you want to keep food hot until it’s ready,” says Liu.
Bamboo is also a natural material that does not contain harmful chemicals. “It is safe to use even in high temperatures,” she said, adding that the only drawback is Hong Kong’s humidity.
Chan Yau-leung, chef at Duddell’s in Central, has been using bamboo steamers for more than four decades and doesn’t want to stop.
“Although times change, some traditional practices are not easily replaced,” he said. “Although there are modern alternatives to steamers, I prefer the traditional bamboo steamer.”
Local chefs agree that balancing steam is the bamboo steamer’s superpower. Nobody wants soggy bread.
“If the steamer is unable to release steam, water droplets will form, which is not ideal for traditional Chinese dishes such as steamed buns,” Chen said.
“Durability is also a plus,” said Lee, executive chef at The Legacy House. “With proper care, a bamboo steamer can last about a year,” he said, adding that it is essential for cooking dishes such as dim sum, chicken, fish and even Chencun rice noodles.
In contrast, stainless steel steamers tend to lose heat quickly, causing water to drip onto the food, Lee added. “They can also rust when exposed to moisture or prolonged heat,” he said.
Forget glass steamers, Lee says—they’re too fragile. “They can crack at high temperatures, making them less practical for professional use.”
Chef Chen Tianlong of Merchants House in Central said bamboo imparts a subtle, earthy flavor to food, giving it an edge over stainless steel or glass steamers.
“Bamboo steamers have a materiality and familiarity that I love, and I always touch them when I drink tea with my family,” Chen said. “I think it affects the overall experience.”
Post time: Jan-12-2024